oh, and I fogot- color. I got my days mixed up here, which I keep ending up doing- for some reason it's so easy to forget about time and the date. I celebrated Holi, the festival of colors 4 days ago. Within 45 min. of waking up and getting outside, I was totally drenched and covered in colors. In fact, I was malled. Gangs of kids walk down the street, and especially if you are a tourist, you get drenched in buckets of water and smeared with vibrant colors of red, blue, yellow, green, etc. It was such a blast. I bought some plastic sacks and colors and sat on the roof of my hostel, and other tenants joined in, and sat there filling bags with colored water and throwing them at people in other hotels. Imagine you as a kid, having that awesome water fight in your neighborhood. Now, add color, and the rest of the ENTIRE country- about the entire country that day was celebrating. I hung out with a fun crowd of people from all over the world- France, USA, New Zealand- and we drank beer and threw color at eachother when not attacking the others around us. It was so much fun. The shirt Jesslyn made me is a wonderful tye-dye now. The pants, I bought especially for that day, I threw away. They were a mess. I still have pink in my finger nails, and stayed a weird shade of blue-ish pink on my arms for several days. The next day, which was Mar. 11th, I got up early after a long night of what all travelers dread (yep, it finally happened- the water beer and food all caught up with me and my body revolted against me) I headed to the bus station, and by 7am I was off to the Chitwan Jungle. It was the most hilarious, rickety, bumpy, INSANE 7 hour bus ride I have ever been on. I thought my window was going to fall right out the whole way; I don't think that bus has any shocks; and the bus driver was hauling butt. I stayed in a little place with grass huts-the people here are poor in a different way than in Kathmandu. They live in grass huts, farm, and live much simpler. That night, I felt like such a wreck from only getting 3 hours of sleep the night before, I hung low and rested. But, March 12th was something else. That morning, breakfast was brought to me, followed by an elephant. Yes, an elephant. This knarly guy whose feet were are knarly as the elephants feet took me out into the jungle on the elephants back. It was so quiet, except for the sound of screaming peacocks (which you hear throughout the night) and millions of other exotic birds. I saw wild peacocks, mongoose, deer, monkeys, some rare bird called "horned beak" or something, crocodiles, and RHINOS. yes, rhinoceros. We stumbled upon a mama and her baby out there in th wild. Luckily, sitting up on a rhino, you feel safe and our presence didn't seem to disturb the pair at all. It was crazy. You really feel like you are looking at a dinosaur. Most prehistoric animal I've ever seen in my life. I also later on that day got to sit bare back on an elephant and give it a bath. I mostly just got sprayed by it's trunk and fell off in to the river, but it was awesome. This grizzley guys shouts this bizzare elephant language and gives it orders. Crazy. even later I took a 4 hour hike into the jungle with a guide from the place I was staying at (by the way,I loved the place I was staying- great people, and I was the ONLY guest due to lack of tourism in Nepal, which is a major problem and really hurting the people here.) I saw more crocodiles, a 5 ft. long snake, which I don't know why I can' t think of the name of.... but it was huge. I've never seen a snake that long in the wild. Also came upon some rhinos sleeping- we quietly walked off to not disturb them. It was a long walk. I slept well that night. The next day, I couldn't leave because of a local strike- they blocked off the main road through town, so I was totally stranded. My last day there I hung out doing nothing- I made a make shift hula hoop and showed the staff some tricks to kill time. I did nothing that day. March 14th, I left. An ox pulling a cart picked me up and took me to the bus station. It was another long 6 hour trip back to Kathmandu. I am happy to be back at my hostel- I love the people here. Tonight, a guy I talk to now and then (he's always outside drinking a beer at 10am- those English folk, so crazy) told me there is a massive strike and most things will be closed tomorrow. Maybe some rioting- don' tknow. WE'll see what happens. I need to buy some stuff before my trek which starts the day after tomorrow... Hopefully we'll be able to even get out of here. It was nice to be out of the city for those days... but I am already ready to go out to the mountains. I will say that I dream of home and friends and kids and family every night. I miss everyone so much, and I haven't even been gone that long. But you are all in my heart every day.
I have probably left out so much, but that is all I can remember at the moment. Did I mention that i got eaten in the jungle? Yep- I think I actually have hives on the back of my right leg- and I'm pretty covered in mosquito bites. I've nver had hives before, and nowhere seems to sell any calamine lotion or any thing like it. SO, i just endure the itch..
well, love to all of you. It may be a long while till I can write again.
Nameste
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Monkeys and Raju
Sat. marked one week of me experiencing Kathmandu. I woke up early that day, had a big breakfast, and started walking toward Monkey Temple. The walk was different than my past long walks through the city. I crossed a river that was so polluted with trash and sewage I started to gag. Looking down at my feet didn't help either as particles of animal were scattered accross the bridge. Wandered through a neighborhood that was pretty nice. Lots of smiling beautiful, curious faces. I had to dodge water balloons a lot that day. I only got hit a few times.
It was only a 20 min. walk there to Swayambutnath (monkey temple). The entrance was spectacular. Huge gate that told all- gold and elaborate. It is a long walk up steps toward the temple. Surrounding the area is giant Buddha statues about big as houses it seems like. More beggars, more people selling. That last bit up was the steepest and hardest. But so worth it once you reach the top. Monkeys run wild doing tricks upon the temples. The eyes pierced down at me. Many locals come here to pray. The grounds are surrounded with little stupas that are dark and medival looking. I am finding this place hard to describe. It was all just too incredible to put into words. The view looking down at the valley of Kathmandu is also pretty amazing, and for the first time I could see a little tip of the himilayas (it's always so smoggy and hazy here). I wandered down the path and found myself at a different temple where there appeared to be a dance party, and young women were shakin it. ;) even the older men joined into the dancing of local hip hop. It was fun to watch. All so amazing. I don't know how long I stayed at Monkey Temple, but it had some great people watcing. I went to another buddhist monestary there too. I watched a monk show a woman how to pray, which lead to beautiful prayers and chanting. The sound of those monks will forever stay in my mind. I spent the rest of that day walking home, and drinking a needed beer. I got hit a few times walking home with more water balloons. Only 2 days left till the festival.
Sunday, I slept in. I didn't do too much at all. I DID however, make plans to go to the Chitwan National Forest on Tuesday. Looking forward to that. I will spend 3 days there, canoeing, washing elephants, going on a little jungle saffari for only $70! That includes hotel stay and food too. But anyway, I was walking down the street with my friend and suddenly a man ran up to us from behind. It was Raju. He had been looking all day yesterday for us, and now all morning. He said his wife was very mad at him for not having us over for dinner in thanks for "changing their life". I said ok. He took us on a little adventure around his neighborhood- took us to a temple, where I got nailed by balloons. (I was soaked.) At one point I had to use a bathroom, so he asked some people on the street if I got use their toilet. It was just a hole in the ground. Funny to do. Good thing I have strong legs. The women were working inside making these beautiful carpets by hand. It was amazing. They work together working on one, and it takes more than a month to complete it. Hard work.
That night, Raju and his wife cooked us the most delicious dinner- most authentic Indian food I ahave ever had. It is tradition to feed eachother, so we all took pieces of chipati and grabbed up the veggie concoction and fed eachother. The 2 year old just sucked on a tomatoe and smiled. She is so adorable. It was truely a memorable experience.
So, today is Monday, festival of Colors. I bought some hilarious pants that I think is for a short man.... to wear today. In a few hours, I am going to be bombarded with water and color. I think being a white female makes me an easy, obvious target. It will be hilarious.
So, I may not have a chance to get to ta computer for a while after this entry, so please don't worry about me (mom and dad). I'm just going to be busy.
Much love to you all.
-athena
It was only a 20 min. walk there to Swayambutnath (monkey temple). The entrance was spectacular. Huge gate that told all- gold and elaborate. It is a long walk up steps toward the temple. Surrounding the area is giant Buddha statues about big as houses it seems like. More beggars, more people selling. That last bit up was the steepest and hardest. But so worth it once you reach the top. Monkeys run wild doing tricks upon the temples. The eyes pierced down at me. Many locals come here to pray. The grounds are surrounded with little stupas that are dark and medival looking. I am finding this place hard to describe. It was all just too incredible to put into words. The view looking down at the valley of Kathmandu is also pretty amazing, and for the first time I could see a little tip of the himilayas (it's always so smoggy and hazy here). I wandered down the path and found myself at a different temple where there appeared to be a dance party, and young women were shakin it. ;) even the older men joined into the dancing of local hip hop. It was fun to watch. All so amazing. I don't know how long I stayed at Monkey Temple, but it had some great people watcing. I went to another buddhist monestary there too. I watched a monk show a woman how to pray, which lead to beautiful prayers and chanting. The sound of those monks will forever stay in my mind. I spent the rest of that day walking home, and drinking a needed beer. I got hit a few times walking home with more water balloons. Only 2 days left till the festival.
Sunday, I slept in. I didn't do too much at all. I DID however, make plans to go to the Chitwan National Forest on Tuesday. Looking forward to that. I will spend 3 days there, canoeing, washing elephants, going on a little jungle saffari for only $70! That includes hotel stay and food too. But anyway, I was walking down the street with my friend and suddenly a man ran up to us from behind. It was Raju. He had been looking all day yesterday for us, and now all morning. He said his wife was very mad at him for not having us over for dinner in thanks for "changing their life". I said ok. He took us on a little adventure around his neighborhood- took us to a temple, where I got nailed by balloons. (I was soaked.) At one point I had to use a bathroom, so he asked some people on the street if I got use their toilet. It was just a hole in the ground. Funny to do. Good thing I have strong legs. The women were working inside making these beautiful carpets by hand. It was amazing. They work together working on one, and it takes more than a month to complete it. Hard work.
That night, Raju and his wife cooked us the most delicious dinner- most authentic Indian food I ahave ever had. It is tradition to feed eachother, so we all took pieces of chipati and grabbed up the veggie concoction and fed eachother. The 2 year old just sucked on a tomatoe and smiled. She is so adorable. It was truely a memorable experience.
So, today is Monday, festival of Colors. I bought some hilarious pants that I think is for a short man.... to wear today. In a few hours, I am going to be bombarded with water and color. I think being a white female makes me an easy, obvious target. It will be hilarious.
So, I may not have a chance to get to ta computer for a while after this entry, so please don't worry about me (mom and dad). I'm just going to be busy.
Much love to you all.
-athena
Friday, March 6, 2009
Poverty
Last night I had way too much fun. I was invited by a local to go see some live music on a rooftop. It was awesome. I will have to do impressions for you guys when I get home. I drank too much, and ended up dancing and doing a shot with some girls I started talking to and hanging out with. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough food in me, so I ended up getting a bit sick later that night.
So, today I felt pretty crappy. I ate a muffin and some mint tea, and started to wonder with my friend from the hostel. I found myself at a new temple somewhere outside Thamel (the main tourist district, which I have stayed in mostly because it feels safe) An Indian man started talking to us about it, and told us about the festival coming up , festival of colors. Which is why water baloons are constantly being thrown at me- I'm their target practice. He invited us to tea in a little place nearby. He gave us endless tips of being in the city, how to save money, and finding good, honest shops. Good man. His name is Raju. He ends up taking us back to Boudhnath, now my third time there, but this time we go to a different monestary, the white one. I took my shoes off and followed Raju inside. There were about 50 monks in there oming and chanting, and playing enourmous horns. IT was so intense. I started tearing up from the energy that room held. I couldn't believe it. It travels through your body and you suddenly feel very light, and small in this big world. There was a giant gold buddha in the center of the room.
We left and went to a room where women work all day on Mandalas. They are amazing. a man there explained everything.
Next, Raju took us to his home. He lives in a muslim community with other Indians. His home is literally a shack. His beautiful daughter was sleeping. She had a cold. His wife made us Indian tea. He talked to us about how hard it is, but how grateful he is. His eyes started to tear up. I had to help. I sat on their bed/couch/table/ main furniture. I ended up buying him a shoe box he can use to repair shoes to make money to support his family. I have never seen a man more grateful in my life. He shook my hand with tears, and his wife kept bowing to me. I left in tears too. I have never seen anyone so poor in all my life. It is intense. He asked me to stay for dinner, but I was really hungry for some Dal Bhat, so I said goodbye. We took the local mini bus (basically a van people pile into for 5 rupee) back to town. A wonderful man we met on the bus lead us to Thamel, and he recommended a great cheap place to get Dal Bhat. I dont think that place gets much tourists.
I am exhausted now.
Power will probably go off soon.
Love to you all.
So, today I felt pretty crappy. I ate a muffin and some mint tea, and started to wonder with my friend from the hostel. I found myself at a new temple somewhere outside Thamel (the main tourist district, which I have stayed in mostly because it feels safe) An Indian man started talking to us about it, and told us about the festival coming up , festival of colors. Which is why water baloons are constantly being thrown at me- I'm their target practice. He invited us to tea in a little place nearby. He gave us endless tips of being in the city, how to save money, and finding good, honest shops. Good man. His name is Raju. He ends up taking us back to Boudhnath, now my third time there, but this time we go to a different monestary, the white one. I took my shoes off and followed Raju inside. There were about 50 monks in there oming and chanting, and playing enourmous horns. IT was so intense. I started tearing up from the energy that room held. I couldn't believe it. It travels through your body and you suddenly feel very light, and small in this big world. There was a giant gold buddha in the center of the room.
We left and went to a room where women work all day on Mandalas. They are amazing. a man there explained everything.
Next, Raju took us to his home. He lives in a muslim community with other Indians. His home is literally a shack. His beautiful daughter was sleeping. She had a cold. His wife made us Indian tea. He talked to us about how hard it is, but how grateful he is. His eyes started to tear up. I had to help. I sat on their bed/couch/table/ main furniture. I ended up buying him a shoe box he can use to repair shoes to make money to support his family. I have never seen a man more grateful in my life. He shook my hand with tears, and his wife kept bowing to me. I left in tears too. I have never seen anyone so poor in all my life. It is intense. He asked me to stay for dinner, but I was really hungry for some Dal Bhat, so I said goodbye. We took the local mini bus (basically a van people pile into for 5 rupee) back to town. A wonderful man we met on the bus lead us to Thamel, and he recommended a great cheap place to get Dal Bhat. I dont think that place gets much tourists.
I am exhausted now.
Power will probably go off soon.
Love to you all.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
hangin' out
The past few days have been dedicated to chilling out. I spent an entire day doing absolutely NOTHING, and I totally dug it. I love you kids at LHMS, but I am loving this break from reality, and getting this amazing glimpse of reality in the real world.
I tried to write the other day, but the power was shut off just before I could publish it. There is only 6 hours of power a day, which is broken up into 3 hr. segments.
I did nothing for 2 days in a row. Clare and the others are on a trek in the Annapurna region, so I have been on my lonesome, till a new friend came into the picture.
Yesterday, we walked to Pashpatinath, the Hindu temple, again. Totally different vibe. Not as many yogi's there that day. There were 4 bodies being cremated, and the smoke was horrific. We also found these amazing steps that were totally filled with monkeys that lead to deer park. That walk took about 2 hours. Then, we spent the next hour walking to Boudnath, the buddhist temple where tibetans refugees come to pray, and monks attend a monestary there to study. The walk there was interesting. I had little pebbles being thrown at me for being in a off the beaten track neighborhood. and it was. We got a lot of funny looks. I also want to say that I had no idea how to get to these places- just a vague idea i guess. But I found them almost as if I was a magnet. I was totally drawn, and felt totally confident. SO, while at Boudnath, I a monk approached us. He asked us where we were from and so on, then, HE ASKED US TO GO INSIDE THE MONESTARY WITH HIM. It was incredible. We took off our shoes and walked into this dark room with giant gold statues of of gods, and murals that kick the butt off Michaelangelo. It was so intricate, and all had a story. He took our picture, then said a prayer, and wrapped a white scarf around our necks- symbol of good luck and love. He brought us up stairs next. Beautiful view of Boudhnath. He then took my hand and said a prayer and had me say the names of all my family for each candle. Mom, Dad, Liana, you were all blessed by a Buddhist Monk in Nepal with me. Keep that to heart. It was an amazing experience. I was so jazzed- so content, and at peace, yet so energetic I couldn't stop laughing. It was just so awesome. This monk was from Tibet (Lhasa) and has been a monk for 15 years. He said some thing to the effect "tomorrow, I pray, walk in circles, maybe good karma for next life. We'll see!" We walked around a GIANT prayer wheel and he chanted as we walked around it. Each time a bell rang. We said goodbye, and I couldn't believe what had happened. I was blessed by a monk, and he blessed my family. He even took a paper with my name on it to pray for me later. Incredible.
The walk back was insane. Rush hour traffic in Kathmandu is like nothing I've ever seen. It's truely nuts. My high slowly diminished from the fumes and honking. Ended up taking a cab back to a bar where I listened to bad 80's music (except Pat Benatar came on and I thought of singing that with Joy at work for the kids. Then the Talking Heads- "we're on a road to nowhere" and i miss my MikiLu and Nathan. You guys know why.)
I slept well that night.
There are some noisy people now though at my Hostel. In the middle of the night, you'll hear weird pounding, and it is quite obnoxious.
anyway, I hope to go to Monkey Temple tomorrow, maybe with the same new friend.
I'll write when I can.
Love to you all!!
Nameste
Athena
I tried to write the other day, but the power was shut off just before I could publish it. There is only 6 hours of power a day, which is broken up into 3 hr. segments.
I did nothing for 2 days in a row. Clare and the others are on a trek in the Annapurna region, so I have been on my lonesome, till a new friend came into the picture.
Yesterday, we walked to Pashpatinath, the Hindu temple, again. Totally different vibe. Not as many yogi's there that day. There were 4 bodies being cremated, and the smoke was horrific. We also found these amazing steps that were totally filled with monkeys that lead to deer park. That walk took about 2 hours. Then, we spent the next hour walking to Boudnath, the buddhist temple where tibetans refugees come to pray, and monks attend a monestary there to study. The walk there was interesting. I had little pebbles being thrown at me for being in a off the beaten track neighborhood. and it was. We got a lot of funny looks. I also want to say that I had no idea how to get to these places- just a vague idea i guess. But I found them almost as if I was a magnet. I was totally drawn, and felt totally confident. SO, while at Boudnath, I a monk approached us. He asked us where we were from and so on, then, HE ASKED US TO GO INSIDE THE MONESTARY WITH HIM. It was incredible. We took off our shoes and walked into this dark room with giant gold statues of of gods, and murals that kick the butt off Michaelangelo. It was so intricate, and all had a story. He took our picture, then said a prayer, and wrapped a white scarf around our necks- symbol of good luck and love. He brought us up stairs next. Beautiful view of Boudhnath. He then took my hand and said a prayer and had me say the names of all my family for each candle. Mom, Dad, Liana, you were all blessed by a Buddhist Monk in Nepal with me. Keep that to heart. It was an amazing experience. I was so jazzed- so content, and at peace, yet so energetic I couldn't stop laughing. It was just so awesome. This monk was from Tibet (Lhasa) and has been a monk for 15 years. He said some thing to the effect "tomorrow, I pray, walk in circles, maybe good karma for next life. We'll see!" We walked around a GIANT prayer wheel and he chanted as we walked around it. Each time a bell rang. We said goodbye, and I couldn't believe what had happened. I was blessed by a monk, and he blessed my family. He even took a paper with my name on it to pray for me later. Incredible.
The walk back was insane. Rush hour traffic in Kathmandu is like nothing I've ever seen. It's truely nuts. My high slowly diminished from the fumes and honking. Ended up taking a cab back to a bar where I listened to bad 80's music (except Pat Benatar came on and I thought of singing that with Joy at work for the kids. Then the Talking Heads- "we're on a road to nowhere" and i miss my MikiLu and Nathan. You guys know why.)
I slept well that night.
There are some noisy people now though at my Hostel. In the middle of the night, you'll hear weird pounding, and it is quite obnoxious.
anyway, I hope to go to Monkey Temple tomorrow, maybe with the same new friend.
I'll write when I can.
Love to you all!!
Nameste
Athena
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Day 2 in Kathmandu
Last night I had a wonderful dinner with Tina, the head of the responsible travellers, along with her parents, a friends, and another traveller. Tina also showed me around a bit, which was enormously helpful. I had my first Dal Bhat for dinner, along with a tasty "Nepal Ice" beer. I learned so much, I don't even know where to start. I guess what impacted me the most was what I learned about the schools here. The Gov. funded schools are crap- there are 300 kids in a school with bare walls, one toilet (with no tank , just a hole, and most of the stuff is just all over the place.) I have a choice of either going to these types of schools and helping the teachers with guidance, and how to work with these kids, give them guidance ands such, or going to Pokara and working talking to families and finding out how their educational programs are working out. It's a tough call.
Today I got up adn had breakfast at my hostel,and met up with people at the Shanker Hotel. From their we visited the holy Hindu Temple, saw TONS of monkeys, and watched a cremation- it was a beautiful and quite amazing place. There was cows wandering around and people would come and touch the cows because they were holy. Holy Cow. I got a picture I am excited about of a yogi all in white ash, painted face- you actually have to pay them money to take their picture. They know they are photogenic... and they really are. Next, we went to the famous budha eyes... I wish I could remember teh names of these places. But it was fabulous. Monks walked around while spinning prayer wheels, Om music we play at the preschool set a wonderful mood in the background, and we all felt instantly calm while there. I think it is becasue we were away from the honking and motorcyles, and pedestrians- it is pretty crazy just wallking around. Getting hit seems like it si always a possiblity. We ate lunch on the rough of a building with the most fantastic view of teh city and the eyes. After that we came back to Thamel, and my newly acquired English friend Clare and I went ad foudn a watch, since my hostel doesn't have any clocks and I never know what time it is. IT was sorta an adventure- we toke a ride to find it in, well, essentially it is a basket you ride in and a man pulls you on a bicycle. lIke a carriage.
Dinner is soon, and I have to pee badly, so I will say good bye for now.
Talk to you allsoon.
Today I got up adn had breakfast at my hostel,and met up with people at the Shanker Hotel. From their we visited the holy Hindu Temple, saw TONS of monkeys, and watched a cremation- it was a beautiful and quite amazing place. There was cows wandering around and people would come and touch the cows because they were holy. Holy Cow. I got a picture I am excited about of a yogi all in white ash, painted face- you actually have to pay them money to take their picture. They know they are photogenic... and they really are. Next, we went to the famous budha eyes... I wish I could remember teh names of these places. But it was fabulous. Monks walked around while spinning prayer wheels, Om music we play at the preschool set a wonderful mood in the background, and we all felt instantly calm while there. I think it is becasue we were away from the honking and motorcyles, and pedestrians- it is pretty crazy just wallking around. Getting hit seems like it si always a possiblity. We ate lunch on the rough of a building with the most fantastic view of teh city and the eyes. After that we came back to Thamel, and my newly acquired English friend Clare and I went ad foudn a watch, since my hostel doesn't have any clocks and I never know what time it is. IT was sorta an adventure- we toke a ride to find it in, well, essentially it is a basket you ride in and a man pulls you on a bicycle. lIke a carriage.
Dinner is soon, and I have to pee badly, so I will say good bye for now.
Talk to you allsoon.
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